Wednesday, 15 April 2015

Getting Started - Initial Costs

So you want to know what it costs to set yourself up for solar. Regardless of whether you want to take a fridge to a picnic, go away for a short camping trip, or travel all over the country for several months the first thing you need to determine is what you need. I detailed our initial requirements here: http://campingwithsolar.blogspot.com.au/2015/03/where-it-all-begins.html

In this blog I'll be detailing what we bought for our needs and provide an item-breakdown of costs in order to help you decide what it will cost you to get setup.

I bought all of our items off eBay. The links provided in my shopping list below will give you a reference to start with:

2 x 100AH batteries - Search the link below for"N70T"
http://supercheapauto.com.au
I paid: AU$235 each

1 x 240W solar panel
http://outbaxcamping.com.au/solar-panels/folding-solar-panels.html
From eBay I paid: AU$425

1 x Ctek 250S-Dual battery charger
http://www.ironbarkaustralia.com.au/ctek-d250s-dual.html
From eBay I paid: AU$249

10m of 10AWG (6mm) cable - Search the link below for "6mm twin core cable"
http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/autoelecau
I paid: AU$31

50A Anderson Plugs - Search the link below for "10 50A Anderson"
http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/bit_deals
I paid: AU$15.30 for 10 pieces

8mm eye terminals - Search the link below for "8mm eye terminal"
http://www.jaycar.com.au/
I paid $2.75 for 6 pieces

Miscellaneous items
Heatshrink, solder, fuses, cigarette lighter socket, wire strippers - I had most of these items already so the additional cost for these was minimal.

If you're only looking at making short trips away then you can probably get away with the following:
  • 1 x 100AH battery
  • 1 x 240W solar panel (or even smaller, say 120W, depending on your demand needs)
The 240W panel I bought was provided with a 15A regulator and a 10m cable. This regulator could very well be adequate if your usage demands are low or the weather conditions are great (lots of sun). The supplied cable is not very thick and the regulator is further away from the battery, so there is going to be a loss you need to consider.

In my setup, I cut off the lead provided with the panel and disconnected the regulator. Instead, I connected the cables from the individual panels to a single Anderson plug. I then made a 10m cable using 10AWG (6mm) cable that would run back to the camper. Inside the camper I connected this 6mm cable to the input of the Ctek and connected another cable (also 10AWG) from its output to the battery using the 8mm eye terminals.

So, the minimum cost you can expect to pay for a 240W system is AU$660 (1 battery and 1 panel). If your power needs are small you could potentially get away with a 120W panel for under $200 (off eBay), making the total outlay as little as AU$435.
I've designed our system so we can go away for extended periods of time, even in poor weather conditions. Our complete setup cost just under AU$1200.
You're probably thinking $1200 is a lot of money compared to the difference between powered vs non-powered camp sites. That would be true if you only looked at going to managed sites. We've set ourselves up so we can get away where ever we want, when ever we want. This requires other considerations such as water, toilets, showers etc but that's a discussion for another day.


Now that's camping!

Tuesday, 14 April 2015

Coming to understand batteries a little better

On our most recent camping trip (http://campingwithsolar.blogspot.com.au/2015/04/our-first-real-usage-of-solar-at.html) I monitored the number of Amps captured by our solar panels and the power consumed by the fridge, LED lighting and other miscellaneous connections such as charging the mobile devices over a period of 3 days. By the end of the 3rd day we had recorded 48.688A being captured by the sun and 44.038A being consumed by all devices. With all things being equal this would suggest that the state of charge of the battery at the end of the 3 days should be roughly the same as it was when we started, if not a little higher. Looking back, on day 1 we started with 91% available capacity but at the of the third day we only had 80% charge remaining in the battery. Where did I lose 11% of my total capacity?

Just in case you're not a numbers person let's try and put some perspective into why understanding this is so important to me. We have two 100AH batteries in parallel, giving us the equivalent of 200AH. An 11% loss equates to 22AH so if our fridge draws roughly 2A per hour then I have lost roughly 10 hours of running time. That's huge.

Nerd Alert

In my subsequent research I found some very interesting information that I had not known below. I always thought that amp-hours was simply a unit that described a quantity of current over a one hour period. Well, it's not quite as simple as that.

In Physics, the measure of charge is the Coulomb, which is 6.24 x 1018 electrons. And it's electrons that are stored in a battery (this much I knew).

Now, Q = I * t where Q is the charge in Coulombs, I is the current in amps and t is the time in seconds. This means that if a wire is conducting 1 amp in 60 seconds then this is 60 Coulombs of charge per minute, which equates to 3600 Coulombs per hour.

As it turns out, engineers become frustrated trying to work with the number 3600 when calculating amps or hours for a given number of Coulombs so they invented the unofficial unit now commonly known as amp-hours. And to make things just a little more confusing the hyphen means times. Yep, amp-hours means amps times hours.

Someone thank the engineers, seriously. When I'm working with my 100AH batteries I know this means I'll get (theoretically) 100 hours of battery with a constant load of 1 amp. I'd hate to be working with Coulombs as my units.

Coming back that 'theoretical' comment, read on for a little more insight into how battery capacities are defined by manufacturers.

The C-rate

I recently purchased as Sealed Lead Acid battery that was rated as "7.2AH/20". I knew what 7.2AH meant but had no idea what the value of 20 referred to. I've since discovered it is the manufactures way of describing how they arrived at the rating of 7.2AH.

A battery rated at 7.2AH could be interpreted as being able to deliver 1 amp over 7.2 hours, or even 7.2 amps over a 1 hour period. As I'll be describing in more detail later this is not actually achievable. The value of 20 indicates the C-rate, also known as the discharge current rate.  For this battery, the manufacturer discharged the battery over a 20 hour period and determined what load was required until it had reached what is known as the "cut off voltage" - the voltage at which the battery is considered "empty". So, in reality, the manufacturer has determined that this battery reached the cut off voltage after 20 hours while drawing a load of 360 mA (0.36A x 20 hours is equivalent to 7.2AH).

As an aside, I don't know what the cut off voltage is for this 7.2AH battery but from what I've read my 12v 100AH lead acid batteries are considered full at 12.7v and empty at 11.9v. This is handy to know because based on this I can determine the capacity of my batteries using some simple math:

Capacity (%) = 125 * (volts - 11.9)

But I digress. All this C-rate stuff is important to know, so read on.

Contributors of lost capacity

Learning about the C-rate didn't help explain my 11% loss but at this point I'd like to mention some factors that contribute to loss of battery performance over time.
  • The age of the battery
  • The temperature
  • Constant charge and discharge
  • The rate of charge
  • Component corrosion
  • Electrical shorts
  • Vibrations
  • Under and over charging
One of the biggest "rule of thumb" to keep in mind is to always try and prevent the battery from discharging any more than 50%. The more you discharge a battery, the more you degrade the lifetime of the battery.

Recharge rate

Different battery types have different charging requirements so be sure to refer to technical datasheets associated with the battery you're using. My batteries require a charge rate no greater than 10% of the battery capacity. The best recommendation I can make is to purchase a good quality charger suitable for the batteries you're using. I'm using a Ctek 250S-Dual when connected to solar and an ArkPak when sitting at home in the garage. These are 5 and 7 stage chargers, respectively.

At a minimum, you should be looking at a charger that applies at least these 3 stages:

Bulk charge - In this phase a constant current is supplied at a rate determined by the charger (such as the 10% rate I mentioned earlier. This current is applied until the battery reaches approximately 70% capacity.

Absorption charge - In this phase the charger maintains a constant voltage to the battery and the charging current decreases as the battery approaches full charge.

Float charge - In this phase the charger maintains the battery at full charge.

The 5 and 7 stage chargers apply additional techniques, such as desulphation (the removal of sulphate crystals that form as a result of not being fully charged over a period of time), to help extend your battery life. It's worth spending a little extra money on a good charger.

Peukert's Law

After loads of reading I finally stumbled across what is known as Peukert's Law. Finally, some more nerdy stuff.

In 1897 a German scientist by the name of Wilhelm Peukert expressed the capacity of a battery in terms of the rate at which is discharged. Essentially, when thinking about a 100AH battery it is easy to assume this will deliver 1 amp over 100 hours, or 100 amps over 1 hour. Unfortunately, this is not the case. In reality, as the rate of discharge increases, the battery's available capacity decreases.

Earlier I spoke of the C-rate. As it turns out, this information is relevant to Peukert's Law. For example, a 100AH battery with a C-rate of 20 will fully discharge over 20 hours when the discharge current is 1 amp,

Peukert's Law describes the relationship between discharge current (normalized to a base rated current, such as the above-mentioned 1 amp) and delivered capacity (normalized to the rated capacity) over some range of discharge currents. In simple terms, Peukert's Law describes how a battery discharged over a shorter time with a higher current results in reduced capacity.

Mathematically, Peukert's Law is stated as the following:

Cp = Ikt,

where:

Cp is the capacity at a 1 amp discharge rate (expressed in amp-hours)
I is the actual discharge current (load) (expressed in amps)
t is the actual time to discharge the battery (expressed in hours)
k is the Peukert constant

From what I can gather, this equation will only work on batteries that are specified at the "Peukert Capacity" - the 1 amp discharge rate. Manufacturer's specify the capacity at a given hour rate, such as 100AH at 20 hours. For this reason, the formula has been modified to take this into consideration. The revised formula, solving for T, is:

T=C(C / R)k-1 / Ik
or
T=R(C / R)/ Ik

where:

C, I, t and k are as defined above and R is the hour rating (such as 20 hours, 10 hours, 5 hours, etc)

The closer the Peukert constant is to 1.0, the better the battery's ability to deliver a capacity that is independent of the current being drawn. The constant does not take into account the effect of temperature or age of the battery; this needs to be adjusted by either re-calculating the value (by experimenting with various discharge rates) or apply an additional fudge factor (say between 0.1 and 0.5) for each contributing variable.

Naturally, I have no interest in trying to determine what the Peukert constant is for my battery so I went hunting for its technical datasheet. The datasheet did not provide such a value but it did contain a chart showing discharge rates for the battery when rated at C-5, C-10 and C-20. Under the chart was a table that provided the AH rating for these C-rates. Finally, some information that I understand, and can use.

The table indicated the following:
  • A C-20 rating was equivalent to 100AH
  • A C-10 rating was equivalent to 90AH
  • A C-5 rating was equivalent to 80AH
Just as a refresher:
  • The C-20 rating indicates that the battery was fully discharged (reached the cut off voltage) after 20 hours. This implies a discharge rate of 5 amps (100 / 20).
  • The C-10 rating indicates that the battery was fully discharged after 10 hours. This implies a discharge rate of 9 amps (90 / 10).
  • The C-5 rating indicates that the battery was fully discharged after 5 hours. This implies a discharge rate of 16 amps (80 / 5).
Now I just needed to find the formula that would algebraically determine the Peukert's constant based on two ratings (I was too lazy to sit down and work it out). Well, here it is:

For the following:
  • C1 = Capacity rating #1
  • R1 = Hour rating #1
  • C2 = Capacity rating #2
  • R2 = Hour rating #2
Then Peukert's constant is calculated as:

k = ln(R2 / R1) / (ln(C1 / R1) - ln(C2 / R2))

(Note, ln is shorthand for loge)

As an example, using the following information from the datasheet:
  • A C-20 rating was equivalent to 100AH
  • A C-10 rating was equivalent to 90AH
  • A C-5 rating was equivalent to 80AH
I tried the following combinations:

With C1 = 100, R1 = 20, C2 = 90, R2 = 10, Peukert's constant evaluates to 1.18
With C1 = 100, R1 = 20, C2 = 80, R2 = 5, Peukert's constant evaluates to 1.19
With C1 = 90, R1 = 10, C2 = 80, R2 = 5, Peukert's constant evaluates to 1.20

I don't know for sure which value would be the best to use but I imagine you'd want to choose a discharge rate that closely matched your usage. For me, I'd be drawing less than 5 amps per hour (on average) so I'd probably use a value of 1.18 as a starting point. If you'd prefer to be more conservative then go with a higher value.

Calculating available runtime

Now that we know how to calculate Peukert's constant we should be able to determine the battery capacity required to support a given discharge rate. The effective capacity (It) at a given discharge rate, I, is calculated like so:

It = C(C / (I * H))(k-1)

As an example, with a 100AH battery (at a rating of C-20) and a constant load of 2,5A we would have:

C = 100, I = 2.5, H = 20 and k = 1.18

Giving an effective capacity of 113AH. So at 2,5 amps per hour, this would last 45.29 hours. But, we know we should not let the battery discharge more than 50% so the effective runtime is half this - 22.65 hours.

Conclusion

I set out to determine where my 11% was lost. My discharge rate would not have even come close to 5 amps per hour (the C-20 rating) but I guess some loss can be contributed to the intermittent load of around 3 - 3.5A when the fridge compressor kicked in. I don't have enough data to calculate this (it would require constant data logging to know when the compressor kicked in, and for how long it continued drawing the load).

Additionally, I have to assume energy (in the form of heat) was also lost during the charging process and there simply wasn't enough solar energy available to compensate for this.

I don't know how much of this would account for the 11% loss. I don't really need to know the exact breakdown - I just need to know how to take it into consideration on our next camping trip.

Can't let the beer get warm !

Disclaimer

I am no authority on this subject. The information I have provided is based on my understanding of the information I have read. My examples are based on values I plugged into a spreadsheet I created using the mentioned formulas so I'm reasonably confident of the content.

Useful Links

Various links relating to Peukert's Law:


Thursday, 9 April 2015

Our first real usage of Solar at Lostock Dam

In New South Wales, Australia, it’s a well-known fact that it rains over Easter. Sounds like a perfect opportunity to go camping and test out our new solar gear.

The Easter holiday period is between 3rd and 6th of April, so we’ve planned a trip to Lostock Dam Caravan Park (http://goo.gl/uFtQld) between the 2nd and 7th of April. A few friends (and some of their friends) will be joining us so it should be fun.

Lostock Dam is privately owned, located on the Paterson River in the Hunter Valley. The dam itself offers boating, fishing, canoeing and swimming. The overflow from the dam runs into the Paterson River which runs parallel to the park, providing additional swimming and canoeing opportunities.

According to the weather predictions we have prepared ourselves for a mixture of sunshine and rain. Accordingly, I’m looking forward to collecting some data with the hope of being able to better predict energy requirements when faced with less than ideal conditions in the future.

The following is a list of everything I took on this trip for the purpose of running everything off solar:
  • One 240W solar panel (3-way, folding)
  • One Ctek 250S Dual Charger
  • One ArkPak unit with a 100Ah battery
  • A second 100Ah battery (connected in parallel to the ArkPak)
  • Two voltage / current monitors so I can track energy captured and consumed
  • LED lighting
  • One Engel fridge / freezer unit
Our solar testing was focused primarily on the use of our Engel fridge/freezer and some LED lighting. Prior to the trip we made sure the Engel unit had been running for several days (it's actually been keeping my stock of beer chilled for several weeks) and we powered it from the car's cigarette lighter during the trip itself.  It's also worth noting that the thermostat was on the maximum setting of 5 when at home but was reduced to 3.5 when connected to the solar.

We arrived at the Park just before 3pm and the first thing I did was connect the solar panels to the Ctek charger and two 100Ah batteries. According to the ArkPak's LCD, the battery level was at 99%. Both batteries were fully charged before we left home so I'll use this as a reasonable indication of the initial state.

By the time our site was completely setup and dinner was done, the sun was pretty much ready to fall behind the trees and mountains so I packed the panels away and reduced the Engel's thermostat to 2.5 (the temperature was probably around 20C).

In the morning (3rd April) the batteries were at 92% capacity. The weather conditions had turned for the worse - it's now completely overcast and there's intermittent rain. I could only guess the sun's position based on where I observed it setting the previous evening.

I did some experimenting with the orientation of the solar panels relative to the sky (it was glaring cloud in all directions) and didn't notice any great difference in energy being captured. I'm guessing the diffused light is being reflected off all clouds in all directions (much like a photographic diffuser) so it won't matter which way I face it. I just put it out of the way of the kids and let it do it's thing. I checked the output at random times of the day and noticed I was lucky to get up to 1A (most of the time it was around 0.4A to 0.8A).

Ok, it was time to get serious. The configuration of everything hangs together like this:


At 10:20am (3rd April) I reset the two monitors (shown as M1 and M2 in the diagram) so I could better track (and compare) energy going in compared to the energy being consumed. All readings were taken while the fridge was idle to ensure there was no bias due to a heavy load being present.

Here are the readings I took during the course of the day:


The monitors I'm using record the cumulative current output by the Ctek (M1) and consumed by the Engel (M2). These values are noted in the 3rd and 5th columns respectively. For the purpose of a per-hour comparison I have calculated the A/Hr values in the 2nd and 3rd last columns.

So, at 10.20am the battery was reading 91% capacity and almost 7.5 hours later it was at a reasonable 87%. As for the energy, I had captured an average of 0.81A per hour over the course of the day, while the Engel had consumed only 0.69A per hour. This low current draw of the Engel is attributed to the low ambient temperature and the fact I turned the thermostat down to 2.5.

4th April 2015
The following day was worst than the previous. The cloud cover is heavier, lower in the sky and there's a little fog. It was too wet and cold to do much so we pretty much sat around chatting with our friends, kept the kids entertained with games and enjoyed a beer or three.

I noted the following data during the day:


You'll notice I've added additional columns for the freezer thermostat setting, temperature and current battery status.

The energy consumption of the Engel is approximately the same for both days (which makes sense considering the conditions were pretty much the same) but what's not immediately apparent is that for the elapsed period of 32 hours, 18 hours of that time has been spent collecting rays from the sun (I pretty much left the panels out until the monitor was reporting next to no current being produced). Although the quality and quantity of sunlight was poor I've still managed to replace approximately 50% of what has been consumed this far.


It has been quite a dreary day. Nothing but cold wind and loads of rain. Here's hoping for a better day tomorrow.

5th April 2015
It's a brand new day and the clouds still haven't cleared but at least it isn't raining too much.

More importantly, it's Easter Sunday. Even in the rain the hunt must go on.

Oh yeah, daylight savings has also ended today. The times recorded from this point forward have an additional hour added to ensure the calculations remain relative.

Fortunately, the clouds started to move on (mostly) just before lunch, allowing us to once again see the sun. It's time to start generating some real energy from the panels.

Now the numbers start to get exciting:


Up until 11:20am (12:20 in the table) you can see the "Solar A/Hr" is roughly the same as the previous day. As soon as the sun come out though the Ctek started to push some real energy into the battery. At 11:55am (12:55 in the table) the rate had already increased to 0.37 - more than the average calculated for the end of the previous day. And by mid-afternoon (15:44 in the table) the energy produced from the panels was finally exceeding the energy being consumed. We can finally see the battery capacity being restored.

In my past experiments I was stoked to achieve a maximum of 196W from these 240W panels, but today we've managed to peak them at just over 217W. And compared to the cloudy days of around 1.0A, seeing that peak of over 16A is truly beyond what I was expecting.

This trip was my first real usage of the Ctek charger. Worth every dollar.

6th April 2015
A nice early rise (6.10am) has given me the opportunity to go for a walk and capture some wonderful photos of the bushland surrounding our site. Check these out.




Until now I hadn't really had the opportunity to go for a good walk and explore this park (mostly because the ground was so soggy from all of the recent rain). I'm sure glad the sun came out yesterday and has appeared once again today. As it turns out though, there is a storm predicted for tomorrow so we've decided to start packing up around lunch time and make our way home while everything is dry.

We experienced it all on this trip. Two days of constant rain and overcast conditions meant lowering the Engel's thermostat was the only sure of of preventing rapid battery depletion. Not know if the sun was ever going to show itself we managed the usage of battery power as conservatively as possible. We got lucky on the third day and was able to recover the battery depletion quite rapidly. At least now I know that when we go camping in hot weather it's a pretty sure bet we'll be able to keep the beer nicely chilled !

Most importantly though, in-between all of the data collection we found time to sit back and relax with each other, play games with the children, explore the bush land, do some kayaking and even ride an inflatable down the river's rapids.

I reckon we might come back here again one day.