Monday, 12 October 2015

Dual Battery Connections

So you've worked out that you need two 100AH batteries while free camping, but now you're wondering how to best keep them charged using your solar panel(s) and regulated charger.

On our most recent camping trip I decided to connect both batteries in parallel (using recommendations that I'll discuss shortly) and keep them permanently connected to the solar panels / charger and load (lights, fridge/freezer and so on).

Fortunately for us the weather was awesome - no shortage of sun for the full week we were away from civilization. I didn't measure the power usage on this trip but from past experience I assumed I would use around 2.5A/hr, which equates to 60A / 720W per day.

Based on a general guideline of 80% efficiency of the panels over a 6 hour period of sunlight our 240W panels would produce (240 x 0.8 x 6) 1152W - that's 1.6 times our estimated usage. Unbelievably, we had much more than 6 hours of sunlight each day and as such the batteries never fell below 13V, even when under load. In a way it's a shame because I didn't get an opportunity to assess the wiring configuration I used, as discussed below.

Let's consider a wiring configuration that connects the load directly to the terminals of one of the batteries (I'll refer to this as battery #1).

THIS IS BAD because it places a greater demand on battery #1 while the load is active. Battery #2 doesn't work as hard because of the extra resistance in the cables joining to battery #1.

Similarly, if the charger was connected in the same way then the battery immediately connected to the charger will receive a higher charging voltage.

As you can probably imagine all of this leads to inefficiencies. The preferred approach is shown in the following image:

After connecting the batteries in parallel, this image shows the positive lead of one Anderson plug connected to the positive terminal of one battery and the negative terminal of the second battery. A second Anderson plug connects to the alternate positive and negative terminals.

Without going into all of the science behind it, electrons within a battery flow from positive to negative when being charged and when it is under load they flow from negative to positive. To help the electrons flow more evenly through both batteries this latter wiring configuration is highly recommended.

The configuration in the latter image is exactly how I wired our two batteries but there was one annoying issue - connecting them upon arrival and disconnecting to come home was time consuming and risky due to the possibility of an accidental short circuit. Our camping makes use of a camper van (trailer) rather than a caravan so there is no possibility of permanently wiring these batteries in.

Since arriving back home I've come up with an alternative approach that means I'll be able to keep an Anderson plug permanently connected to the batteries and the only extra work required when we arrive at the campsite will involve connecting those batteries to a harness. This harness has two plugs to connect to the batteries and two others to connect to the solar charger and load. The following image shows this diagrammatically:

I've also included a 10A fuse on the left-most lead and a 30A fuse on the right-most lead. This provides a level of protection for the load and charger respectively.

I used 6mm cable (rated to 51A) to connect the Anderson plugs to the battery terminals. The idea here is that since my leads are no longer connected directly to the battery terminals I want to make sure there is as little loss as possible due to resistance or heat.

As for the harness itself I used cable rated to 30A on the basis the maximum output of the charger is 20A and the connected load will typically draw 5A at most (but allowing for up to 10A).

The photographs further below show the final result of putting the harness together. The two unconnected plugs in the last image will be connected to the load (fridge/freezer etc) and the charger.

I can't wait to try it out on my next camping adventure.


Saturday, 26 September 2015

Pre-Trip Solar Testing

Up until a week ago I had been working on a smart relay controller to manage the charging and power sourcing from two batteries. Well, that ended in smoke a week ago - literally.

I had completed the prototype including all electronics, wiring and housing. Unfortunately, there were some design limitations (such as MUST have two batteries connected) and exclusions (such as over voltage and digital input protection) that I was hoping would not get in the way of a great blog, but as destiny would have it I saw smoke after a few hours into the programming.

 

I won't go into the details in this blog but I think the long leads to the car batteries were a contributing factor due to increased inductance (and the fact that I only had one battery connected to the second battery connection) which caused the circuit to toggle on/off at a rapid rate - a known limitation of my circuit that I failed to think about before I connected the battery). I have some new ideas in mind that will greatly simplify the design and prevent the same disaster in version 2. Stay tuned for more on that.

With a pending camping trip due to commence in a few days I decided to spend this weekend testing my panels and batteries just to make sure everything was in good condition. This blog is to report on the test setup, conditions and final results.

Our setup is made up of the following:
  • Two 100AH deep cycle batteries wired in parallel (positive to positive and negative to negative)
  • A Ctek 250S Dual DC-DC converter / charger capable of giving out 20A.
  • 3 solar panels providing up to 240W. These panels are documented to output a maximum of 18V and 13.33A (it was originally supplied with a 15A regulator). I've removed the supplied regulator and feed the panels directly into the Ctek charger. As you'll see in my notes below I have recorded close to 22V and 16A peaks (not at the same time). I've even noted a peak power (voltage x current) of 266.7W !!!
  • All cables to the charger and battery are 4mm rated to approx. 30A. These are all soldered onto either Anderson plugs or terminals that are screwed onto the battery. No cables are crimped.
  • The output of the charger is connected to the battery such that the positive lead connects to battery 1 and the negative lead connects to battery 2.
  • The output cable to be fed to devices (such as our Engel fridge/freezer) is connected in the opposite fashion (positive lead to battery 2 and negative lead to battery 1).
All my reading on how to connect batteries indicates that when a battery is being drained by a source the electrons flow from negative to positive and when a battery is being charged the electrons flow in the opposite direction. The wiring configuration indicated above helps to balance the electron flow. With my limited knowledge this sounds like it would equate to more even charging / discharging and therefore helps to extend the battery life.

The Experiment

The aim of this testing was to start with a battery at around 50% discharge and then connect everything for approximately 6 hours and see just how well the battery would charge over this time period.

Preparation began yesterday by defrosting the Engel refrigerator and disconnecting the AC based charger I use to maintain the batteries. The refrigerator was then connected to the batteries with its thermostat set to its maximum setting (5 out of 5) and left running overnight (opening the door from time to time to help kick the compressor into life). My aim was to get the battery as close to 50% as I could (12.3v).

The testing began at 08:30am this morning. Local conditions are quite cool (approx. 20C degrees), there's a lot of cloud cover and random periods of light rain. The battery is sitting nicely at 12.3v (open circuit) - perfect. I've reset the thermostat to 3 (typically keeps the freezer at around -10C when conditions are ideal).

There's a few points to note that will influence the interpretation of results (your conditions will more than likely be less than ideal as was the case in this test scenario).
  • The temperature is nice and low (helps reduce the number of times the refrigerator's compressor needs to kick in)
  • The lower temperature also helps improve the solar panel efficiency
  • The cloud cover reduces the ability to capture sun (which is great for this test)
  • The refrigerator door was not opened during testing (I forgot to do this)
  • The open circuit battery readings taken during the course of the day may be artificially elevated due to being connected to the charger. A true gauge of open circuit battery status can only really be gained after 8 hours of rest (I've read 2 hours is the absolute minimum)
  • The Engel refrigerator draws around 2.5A / hr - when it kicks in it draws around 45-50W


And here's the data:

08:30am
  • Ctek input: averaging around 1.05A, 19.2V and 25W
  • Battery: open-circuit at 12.3V, closed circuit (under load) at 12.17V
08:40am
  • A small break in the clouds providing some sun
  • Ctek input: averaging around 4.00A, 19.76V and 79W
09:30am
  • Overcast conditions with light rain
  • Ctek input: averaging around 2.22A, 19.48V and 43W
10:30am
  • Ctek input: hovering around 3-5A, 17-19V and 50-60W
  • Battery: open-circuit at 12.95V, closed circuit (under load) at 12.88V
11:30am
  • Filtered sunlight
  • Ctek input: hovering around 3-4A, 19V and 85W
  • Battery: open-circuit at 13.10V, closed circuit (under load) at 12.95V
12:20pm
  • I moved the panels 90 degrees (the sun had moved substantially by this time)
  • Ctek input: averaging around 4.7A, 19.2V and 91W
  • Battery: open-circuit at 13.20V
1:30pm
  • Ctek input: averaging around 4.5A, 20.5V and 90W
  • Battery: open-circuit at 13.29V
2:30pm
  • Sun has broken through the clouds
  • Ctek input: moving around 5-10A, 19V and 100-150W
  • Battery: open-circuit at 13.4 - 13.6V
2:35pm
  • More sun (5 mins since previous reading)
  • Ctek input: averaging around 15.7A, 21.6V and approx. 228W
  • Battery: open-circuit at 13.4 - 13.6V
At this point I noticed the current being drawn from the panels (by the Ctek) was cycling from 0A up to approx. 15A. At this point I suspect it has changed it's method of delivering power (it's a 7 stage charger)...at this point the closed circuit battery reading is 13.05V.

Conclusion

While I can confidently state the battery was around 50% capacity when I started (because it wasn't connected to the charger during the evening) I cannot (with certainty) claim to what level the battery has been restored after 6 hours of charging.

The capacity of a car battery is meant to be read open-circuit without any charging for at least 2 hours; 8 hours seemingly the preferred period. Depending on the reference material you read, a battery at 100% is typically sitting around 12.7V. I think it would be safe to assume that my final reading of 13.6V wouldn't drop much lower than this after 8 hours of rest.

I'd like to think this has been a success even though the testing has been biased by the fact camping conditions have not been accurately reproduced. I was only after a rough guideline for performance.

Saturday, 1 August 2015

A better flasher

Ok, so in my previous blog entry I talked about the fun I had fine tuning my single LED flasher for my little solar / battery relay controller. Well, as it turns out what I produced wasn't the best idea I've had all week.

I went back to my CAD software (Eagle) to update the schematic only to realize the original 555 based implementation had the two blue LEDs in parallel. Yep, darn, I didn't even give the second LED a thought - I could have stuck with a traditional flip-flop after all. Furthermore, my original schematic had the ULN2003 wired incorrectly so as a bonus I've also realized I don't need the original zener diode either. My circuit already has a 5v rail that will be provided by the Arduino.

So, being the perfectionist I am, I went back to the breadboard and put together a basic flip flop (almost identical to the previous circuit) and played around with different resistor / capacitor combinations to see how close I could get to a 1Hz flash rate. Based on the parts I had available I ultimately decided to stick with the standard 10K resistor and 100uF capacitor (provided a rate of 1.07Hz).

While I had all the gear out I thought I'd also optimize the current flowing through each LED. I measured around 5.2v from my power source (my test setup was using a 12v source and a 5.1v zener) and found the LED had 3.3v across its pins (I expected it to be around 3.2v). This leaves 1.9v so for a maximum current of 20mA I would require 95ohms between +VCC and the transistor's collector (with 100ohms being the closest available). I decided to halve the maximum current and use a 200ohm resistor instead. I put it all together and measured the current between the transistor's emitter and the LED's anode - it was spot on 10mA.

Below is the oscilloscope's output, the updated circuit and a small video showing the flashing LED (I used two inputs of a tri-colour LED to emulate two individual LED's.


 

Building a small relay controller

The last thing I want to be doing while camping is keeping an eye on my battery status so I switch from one to the other before the battery in use is depleted by more than 50%. Sure, I can put both batteries in parallel but I prefer to give my Ctek 250 one battery at a time as this is how it will perform at its best.

For this reason I've decided to design and build my own smart controller that can monitor battery status and automatically switch the charging and source batteries. At the heart of the design will be an Arduino that will be used to monitor voltage and current information. This information will be interpreted and used to drive relays that will switch the loads automatically. I'll also be building in some visual indicators and an LCD to provide real-time data. I have plans to eventually add data logging so I can read the information at a later time in the hope of being able to detect reduced battery performance. So many plans. Who knows how far I'll get with this project, but in this blog I'm giving some insight into one small part of the circuit design.

The final product will contain two tri-colour LEDs to indicate the state of the system for each of the two batteries connected.

RED - Will indicate the associated battery is currently being charged.

GREEN - Will indicate the associated battery is currently being used to source any connected load(s).

BLUE - Will indicate the associated battery is currently isolated (not charging or providing a source of power).

For a bit of fun I decided it would be good to make the BLUE indicators flash. I didn't want to waste two outputs of the Arduino for this purpose and since the microcontroller has a limited memory I didn't want to waste valuable space writing code for something I could do via electronics.

Flashing an LED can be achieved by a number if different methods. One would be to use a 555 timer and the other would be to use a handful of resistors, transistors and capacitors to create a bi-stable multi-vibrator (also known as a flip-flop).

I originally planned on using the 555 timer but for no reason other than wanting to play with my oscilloscope I decided to do it using the basic components.

All flip-flop circuits I've created contained two LEDs that alternated. I only want one LED so a small circuit refactor was going to be required.

Most flip-flop circuits you'll find use NPN transistors with the LEDs connected between its collector and a resistor that limits the current from the power source.

My tri-colour LEDS are common-cathode so I thought I'd start with a circuit I was familiar with but move the LED to the transistor emitter. Since I only needed one LED, I removed the second from the circuit and switched it on.

It was crap. I could see the LED ramp up in brightness before it abruptly turned off again.

It was time to connect up the oscilloscope and check what was happening on the capacitor being used to change the state of the transistor.

As can be seen in the first image the voltage would ramp up, hold and then drop. Unfortunately, the ON time period was much longer than the OFF period.

I tried adjusting the resistor values to alter the capacitor charge rate but this wasn't very effective. I then realized the LED that I had removed was altering the symmetry of the circuit because of a difference in voltage drop (the blue LED can cause up to a 3.2v drop).

The solution was quite simple in the end...reduce the size of the capacitor on the affected side.

At first, the frequency was too fast (about 0.8Hz) but at least the ON and OFF periods were roughly the same. So, with a little more fine tuning (change resistor values to increase the time it takes to charge the capacitors) I managed to obtain a comfortable rate of 1.08Hz.

Happy days. Wow...2am, it was time to head off to bed.

In the morning, however, I was back at it. I wanted to perform one more test - I wanted to hook all of this up to a ULN2003 IC (contains 7 Darlington pairs) to make sure I could drive a 12v relay on one output and have my flasher be driven from another (the flasher incorporates a 5.1v zener to reduce the 12v input source).

It all works. Plenty more to do, but at least the prototyping has finally begun.


LOL...A schematic error - the top power rail for the circuit is meant to be connected to the cathode of the zener...not the 12v rail. Oops. At least I tested it correctly :-)

Wednesday, 15 April 2015

Getting Started - Initial Costs

So you want to know what it costs to set yourself up for solar. Regardless of whether you want to take a fridge to a picnic, go away for a short camping trip, or travel all over the country for several months the first thing you need to determine is what you need. I detailed our initial requirements here: http://campingwithsolar.blogspot.com.au/2015/03/where-it-all-begins.html

In this blog I'll be detailing what we bought for our needs and provide an item-breakdown of costs in order to help you decide what it will cost you to get setup.

I bought all of our items off eBay. The links provided in my shopping list below will give you a reference to start with:

2 x 100AH batteries - Search the link below for"N70T"
http://supercheapauto.com.au
I paid: AU$235 each

1 x 240W solar panel
http://outbaxcamping.com.au/solar-panels/folding-solar-panels.html
From eBay I paid: AU$425

1 x Ctek 250S-Dual battery charger
http://www.ironbarkaustralia.com.au/ctek-d250s-dual.html
From eBay I paid: AU$249

10m of 10AWG (6mm) cable - Search the link below for "6mm twin core cable"
http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/autoelecau
I paid: AU$31

50A Anderson Plugs - Search the link below for "10 50A Anderson"
http://www.ebay.com.au/usr/bit_deals
I paid: AU$15.30 for 10 pieces

8mm eye terminals - Search the link below for "8mm eye terminal"
http://www.jaycar.com.au/
I paid $2.75 for 6 pieces

Miscellaneous items
Heatshrink, solder, fuses, cigarette lighter socket, wire strippers - I had most of these items already so the additional cost for these was minimal.

If you're only looking at making short trips away then you can probably get away with the following:
  • 1 x 100AH battery
  • 1 x 240W solar panel (or even smaller, say 120W, depending on your demand needs)
The 240W panel I bought was provided with a 15A regulator and a 10m cable. This regulator could very well be adequate if your usage demands are low or the weather conditions are great (lots of sun). The supplied cable is not very thick and the regulator is further away from the battery, so there is going to be a loss you need to consider.

In my setup, I cut off the lead provided with the panel and disconnected the regulator. Instead, I connected the cables from the individual panels to a single Anderson plug. I then made a 10m cable using 10AWG (6mm) cable that would run back to the camper. Inside the camper I connected this 6mm cable to the input of the Ctek and connected another cable (also 10AWG) from its output to the battery using the 8mm eye terminals.

So, the minimum cost you can expect to pay for a 240W system is AU$660 (1 battery and 1 panel). If your power needs are small you could potentially get away with a 120W panel for under $200 (off eBay), making the total outlay as little as AU$435.
I've designed our system so we can go away for extended periods of time, even in poor weather conditions. Our complete setup cost just under AU$1200.
You're probably thinking $1200 is a lot of money compared to the difference between powered vs non-powered camp sites. That would be true if you only looked at going to managed sites. We've set ourselves up so we can get away where ever we want, when ever we want. This requires other considerations such as water, toilets, showers etc but that's a discussion for another day.


Now that's camping!

Tuesday, 14 April 2015

Coming to understand batteries a little better

On our most recent camping trip (http://campingwithsolar.blogspot.com.au/2015/04/our-first-real-usage-of-solar-at.html) I monitored the number of Amps captured by our solar panels and the power consumed by the fridge, LED lighting and other miscellaneous connections such as charging the mobile devices over a period of 3 days. By the end of the 3rd day we had recorded 48.688A being captured by the sun and 44.038A being consumed by all devices. With all things being equal this would suggest that the state of charge of the battery at the end of the 3 days should be roughly the same as it was when we started, if not a little higher. Looking back, on day 1 we started with 91% available capacity but at the of the third day we only had 80% charge remaining in the battery. Where did I lose 11% of my total capacity?

Just in case you're not a numbers person let's try and put some perspective into why understanding this is so important to me. We have two 100AH batteries in parallel, giving us the equivalent of 200AH. An 11% loss equates to 22AH so if our fridge draws roughly 2A per hour then I have lost roughly 10 hours of running time. That's huge.

Nerd Alert

In my subsequent research I found some very interesting information that I had not known below. I always thought that amp-hours was simply a unit that described a quantity of current over a one hour period. Well, it's not quite as simple as that.

In Physics, the measure of charge is the Coulomb, which is 6.24 x 1018 electrons. And it's electrons that are stored in a battery (this much I knew).

Now, Q = I * t where Q is the charge in Coulombs, I is the current in amps and t is the time in seconds. This means that if a wire is conducting 1 amp in 60 seconds then this is 60 Coulombs of charge per minute, which equates to 3600 Coulombs per hour.

As it turns out, engineers become frustrated trying to work with the number 3600 when calculating amps or hours for a given number of Coulombs so they invented the unofficial unit now commonly known as amp-hours. And to make things just a little more confusing the hyphen means times. Yep, amp-hours means amps times hours.

Someone thank the engineers, seriously. When I'm working with my 100AH batteries I know this means I'll get (theoretically) 100 hours of battery with a constant load of 1 amp. I'd hate to be working with Coulombs as my units.

Coming back that 'theoretical' comment, read on for a little more insight into how battery capacities are defined by manufacturers.

The C-rate

I recently purchased as Sealed Lead Acid battery that was rated as "7.2AH/20". I knew what 7.2AH meant but had no idea what the value of 20 referred to. I've since discovered it is the manufactures way of describing how they arrived at the rating of 7.2AH.

A battery rated at 7.2AH could be interpreted as being able to deliver 1 amp over 7.2 hours, or even 7.2 amps over a 1 hour period. As I'll be describing in more detail later this is not actually achievable. The value of 20 indicates the C-rate, also known as the discharge current rate.  For this battery, the manufacturer discharged the battery over a 20 hour period and determined what load was required until it had reached what is known as the "cut off voltage" - the voltage at which the battery is considered "empty". So, in reality, the manufacturer has determined that this battery reached the cut off voltage after 20 hours while drawing a load of 360 mA (0.36A x 20 hours is equivalent to 7.2AH).

As an aside, I don't know what the cut off voltage is for this 7.2AH battery but from what I've read my 12v 100AH lead acid batteries are considered full at 12.7v and empty at 11.9v. This is handy to know because based on this I can determine the capacity of my batteries using some simple math:

Capacity (%) = 125 * (volts - 11.9)

But I digress. All this C-rate stuff is important to know, so read on.

Contributors of lost capacity

Learning about the C-rate didn't help explain my 11% loss but at this point I'd like to mention some factors that contribute to loss of battery performance over time.
  • The age of the battery
  • The temperature
  • Constant charge and discharge
  • The rate of charge
  • Component corrosion
  • Electrical shorts
  • Vibrations
  • Under and over charging
One of the biggest "rule of thumb" to keep in mind is to always try and prevent the battery from discharging any more than 50%. The more you discharge a battery, the more you degrade the lifetime of the battery.

Recharge rate

Different battery types have different charging requirements so be sure to refer to technical datasheets associated with the battery you're using. My batteries require a charge rate no greater than 10% of the battery capacity. The best recommendation I can make is to purchase a good quality charger suitable for the batteries you're using. I'm using a Ctek 250S-Dual when connected to solar and an ArkPak when sitting at home in the garage. These are 5 and 7 stage chargers, respectively.

At a minimum, you should be looking at a charger that applies at least these 3 stages:

Bulk charge - In this phase a constant current is supplied at a rate determined by the charger (such as the 10% rate I mentioned earlier. This current is applied until the battery reaches approximately 70% capacity.

Absorption charge - In this phase the charger maintains a constant voltage to the battery and the charging current decreases as the battery approaches full charge.

Float charge - In this phase the charger maintains the battery at full charge.

The 5 and 7 stage chargers apply additional techniques, such as desulphation (the removal of sulphate crystals that form as a result of not being fully charged over a period of time), to help extend your battery life. It's worth spending a little extra money on a good charger.

Peukert's Law

After loads of reading I finally stumbled across what is known as Peukert's Law. Finally, some more nerdy stuff.

In 1897 a German scientist by the name of Wilhelm Peukert expressed the capacity of a battery in terms of the rate at which is discharged. Essentially, when thinking about a 100AH battery it is easy to assume this will deliver 1 amp over 100 hours, or 100 amps over 1 hour. Unfortunately, this is not the case. In reality, as the rate of discharge increases, the battery's available capacity decreases.

Earlier I spoke of the C-rate. As it turns out, this information is relevant to Peukert's Law. For example, a 100AH battery with a C-rate of 20 will fully discharge over 20 hours when the discharge current is 1 amp,

Peukert's Law describes the relationship between discharge current (normalized to a base rated current, such as the above-mentioned 1 amp) and delivered capacity (normalized to the rated capacity) over some range of discharge currents. In simple terms, Peukert's Law describes how a battery discharged over a shorter time with a higher current results in reduced capacity.

Mathematically, Peukert's Law is stated as the following:

Cp = Ikt,

where:

Cp is the capacity at a 1 amp discharge rate (expressed in amp-hours)
I is the actual discharge current (load) (expressed in amps)
t is the actual time to discharge the battery (expressed in hours)
k is the Peukert constant

From what I can gather, this equation will only work on batteries that are specified at the "Peukert Capacity" - the 1 amp discharge rate. Manufacturer's specify the capacity at a given hour rate, such as 100AH at 20 hours. For this reason, the formula has been modified to take this into consideration. The revised formula, solving for T, is:

T=C(C / R)k-1 / Ik
or
T=R(C / R)/ Ik

where:

C, I, t and k are as defined above and R is the hour rating (such as 20 hours, 10 hours, 5 hours, etc)

The closer the Peukert constant is to 1.0, the better the battery's ability to deliver a capacity that is independent of the current being drawn. The constant does not take into account the effect of temperature or age of the battery; this needs to be adjusted by either re-calculating the value (by experimenting with various discharge rates) or apply an additional fudge factor (say between 0.1 and 0.5) for each contributing variable.

Naturally, I have no interest in trying to determine what the Peukert constant is for my battery so I went hunting for its technical datasheet. The datasheet did not provide such a value but it did contain a chart showing discharge rates for the battery when rated at C-5, C-10 and C-20. Under the chart was a table that provided the AH rating for these C-rates. Finally, some information that I understand, and can use.

The table indicated the following:
  • A C-20 rating was equivalent to 100AH
  • A C-10 rating was equivalent to 90AH
  • A C-5 rating was equivalent to 80AH
Just as a refresher:
  • The C-20 rating indicates that the battery was fully discharged (reached the cut off voltage) after 20 hours. This implies a discharge rate of 5 amps (100 / 20).
  • The C-10 rating indicates that the battery was fully discharged after 10 hours. This implies a discharge rate of 9 amps (90 / 10).
  • The C-5 rating indicates that the battery was fully discharged after 5 hours. This implies a discharge rate of 16 amps (80 / 5).
Now I just needed to find the formula that would algebraically determine the Peukert's constant based on two ratings (I was too lazy to sit down and work it out). Well, here it is:

For the following:
  • C1 = Capacity rating #1
  • R1 = Hour rating #1
  • C2 = Capacity rating #2
  • R2 = Hour rating #2
Then Peukert's constant is calculated as:

k = ln(R2 / R1) / (ln(C1 / R1) - ln(C2 / R2))

(Note, ln is shorthand for loge)

As an example, using the following information from the datasheet:
  • A C-20 rating was equivalent to 100AH
  • A C-10 rating was equivalent to 90AH
  • A C-5 rating was equivalent to 80AH
I tried the following combinations:

With C1 = 100, R1 = 20, C2 = 90, R2 = 10, Peukert's constant evaluates to 1.18
With C1 = 100, R1 = 20, C2 = 80, R2 = 5, Peukert's constant evaluates to 1.19
With C1 = 90, R1 = 10, C2 = 80, R2 = 5, Peukert's constant evaluates to 1.20

I don't know for sure which value would be the best to use but I imagine you'd want to choose a discharge rate that closely matched your usage. For me, I'd be drawing less than 5 amps per hour (on average) so I'd probably use a value of 1.18 as a starting point. If you'd prefer to be more conservative then go with a higher value.

Calculating available runtime

Now that we know how to calculate Peukert's constant we should be able to determine the battery capacity required to support a given discharge rate. The effective capacity (It) at a given discharge rate, I, is calculated like so:

It = C(C / (I * H))(k-1)

As an example, with a 100AH battery (at a rating of C-20) and a constant load of 2,5A we would have:

C = 100, I = 2.5, H = 20 and k = 1.18

Giving an effective capacity of 113AH. So at 2,5 amps per hour, this would last 45.29 hours. But, we know we should not let the battery discharge more than 50% so the effective runtime is half this - 22.65 hours.

Conclusion

I set out to determine where my 11% was lost. My discharge rate would not have even come close to 5 amps per hour (the C-20 rating) but I guess some loss can be contributed to the intermittent load of around 3 - 3.5A when the fridge compressor kicked in. I don't have enough data to calculate this (it would require constant data logging to know when the compressor kicked in, and for how long it continued drawing the load).

Additionally, I have to assume energy (in the form of heat) was also lost during the charging process and there simply wasn't enough solar energy available to compensate for this.

I don't know how much of this would account for the 11% loss. I don't really need to know the exact breakdown - I just need to know how to take it into consideration on our next camping trip.

Can't let the beer get warm !

Disclaimer

I am no authority on this subject. The information I have provided is based on my understanding of the information I have read. My examples are based on values I plugged into a spreadsheet I created using the mentioned formulas so I'm reasonably confident of the content.

Useful Links

Various links relating to Peukert's Law:


Thursday, 9 April 2015

Our first real usage of Solar at Lostock Dam

In New South Wales, Australia, it’s a well-known fact that it rains over Easter. Sounds like a perfect opportunity to go camping and test out our new solar gear.

The Easter holiday period is between 3rd and 6th of April, so we’ve planned a trip to Lostock Dam Caravan Park (http://goo.gl/uFtQld) between the 2nd and 7th of April. A few friends (and some of their friends) will be joining us so it should be fun.

Lostock Dam is privately owned, located on the Paterson River in the Hunter Valley. The dam itself offers boating, fishing, canoeing and swimming. The overflow from the dam runs into the Paterson River which runs parallel to the park, providing additional swimming and canoeing opportunities.

According to the weather predictions we have prepared ourselves for a mixture of sunshine and rain. Accordingly, I’m looking forward to collecting some data with the hope of being able to better predict energy requirements when faced with less than ideal conditions in the future.

The following is a list of everything I took on this trip for the purpose of running everything off solar:
  • One 240W solar panel (3-way, folding)
  • One Ctek 250S Dual Charger
  • One ArkPak unit with a 100Ah battery
  • A second 100Ah battery (connected in parallel to the ArkPak)
  • Two voltage / current monitors so I can track energy captured and consumed
  • LED lighting
  • One Engel fridge / freezer unit
Our solar testing was focused primarily on the use of our Engel fridge/freezer and some LED lighting. Prior to the trip we made sure the Engel unit had been running for several days (it's actually been keeping my stock of beer chilled for several weeks) and we powered it from the car's cigarette lighter during the trip itself.  It's also worth noting that the thermostat was on the maximum setting of 5 when at home but was reduced to 3.5 when connected to the solar.

We arrived at the Park just before 3pm and the first thing I did was connect the solar panels to the Ctek charger and two 100Ah batteries. According to the ArkPak's LCD, the battery level was at 99%. Both batteries were fully charged before we left home so I'll use this as a reasonable indication of the initial state.

By the time our site was completely setup and dinner was done, the sun was pretty much ready to fall behind the trees and mountains so I packed the panels away and reduced the Engel's thermostat to 2.5 (the temperature was probably around 20C).

In the morning (3rd April) the batteries were at 92% capacity. The weather conditions had turned for the worse - it's now completely overcast and there's intermittent rain. I could only guess the sun's position based on where I observed it setting the previous evening.

I did some experimenting with the orientation of the solar panels relative to the sky (it was glaring cloud in all directions) and didn't notice any great difference in energy being captured. I'm guessing the diffused light is being reflected off all clouds in all directions (much like a photographic diffuser) so it won't matter which way I face it. I just put it out of the way of the kids and let it do it's thing. I checked the output at random times of the day and noticed I was lucky to get up to 1A (most of the time it was around 0.4A to 0.8A).

Ok, it was time to get serious. The configuration of everything hangs together like this:


At 10:20am (3rd April) I reset the two monitors (shown as M1 and M2 in the diagram) so I could better track (and compare) energy going in compared to the energy being consumed. All readings were taken while the fridge was idle to ensure there was no bias due to a heavy load being present.

Here are the readings I took during the course of the day:


The monitors I'm using record the cumulative current output by the Ctek (M1) and consumed by the Engel (M2). These values are noted in the 3rd and 5th columns respectively. For the purpose of a per-hour comparison I have calculated the A/Hr values in the 2nd and 3rd last columns.

So, at 10.20am the battery was reading 91% capacity and almost 7.5 hours later it was at a reasonable 87%. As for the energy, I had captured an average of 0.81A per hour over the course of the day, while the Engel had consumed only 0.69A per hour. This low current draw of the Engel is attributed to the low ambient temperature and the fact I turned the thermostat down to 2.5.

4th April 2015
The following day was worst than the previous. The cloud cover is heavier, lower in the sky and there's a little fog. It was too wet and cold to do much so we pretty much sat around chatting with our friends, kept the kids entertained with games and enjoyed a beer or three.

I noted the following data during the day:


You'll notice I've added additional columns for the freezer thermostat setting, temperature and current battery status.

The energy consumption of the Engel is approximately the same for both days (which makes sense considering the conditions were pretty much the same) but what's not immediately apparent is that for the elapsed period of 32 hours, 18 hours of that time has been spent collecting rays from the sun (I pretty much left the panels out until the monitor was reporting next to no current being produced). Although the quality and quantity of sunlight was poor I've still managed to replace approximately 50% of what has been consumed this far.


It has been quite a dreary day. Nothing but cold wind and loads of rain. Here's hoping for a better day tomorrow.

5th April 2015
It's a brand new day and the clouds still haven't cleared but at least it isn't raining too much.

More importantly, it's Easter Sunday. Even in the rain the hunt must go on.

Oh yeah, daylight savings has also ended today. The times recorded from this point forward have an additional hour added to ensure the calculations remain relative.

Fortunately, the clouds started to move on (mostly) just before lunch, allowing us to once again see the sun. It's time to start generating some real energy from the panels.

Now the numbers start to get exciting:


Up until 11:20am (12:20 in the table) you can see the "Solar A/Hr" is roughly the same as the previous day. As soon as the sun come out though the Ctek started to push some real energy into the battery. At 11:55am (12:55 in the table) the rate had already increased to 0.37 - more than the average calculated for the end of the previous day. And by mid-afternoon (15:44 in the table) the energy produced from the panels was finally exceeding the energy being consumed. We can finally see the battery capacity being restored.

In my past experiments I was stoked to achieve a maximum of 196W from these 240W panels, but today we've managed to peak them at just over 217W. And compared to the cloudy days of around 1.0A, seeing that peak of over 16A is truly beyond what I was expecting.

This trip was my first real usage of the Ctek charger. Worth every dollar.

6th April 2015
A nice early rise (6.10am) has given me the opportunity to go for a walk and capture some wonderful photos of the bushland surrounding our site. Check these out.




Until now I hadn't really had the opportunity to go for a good walk and explore this park (mostly because the ground was so soggy from all of the recent rain). I'm sure glad the sun came out yesterday and has appeared once again today. As it turns out though, there is a storm predicted for tomorrow so we've decided to start packing up around lunch time and make our way home while everything is dry.

We experienced it all on this trip. Two days of constant rain and overcast conditions meant lowering the Engel's thermostat was the only sure of of preventing rapid battery depletion. Not know if the sun was ever going to show itself we managed the usage of battery power as conservatively as possible. We got lucky on the third day and was able to recover the battery depletion quite rapidly. At least now I know that when we go camping in hot weather it's a pretty sure bet we'll be able to keep the beer nicely chilled !

Most importantly though, in-between all of the data collection we found time to sit back and relax with each other, play games with the children, explore the bush land, do some kayaking and even ride an inflatable down the river's rapids.

I reckon we might come back here again one day.